InformationTitleErica: Culture Guide for GrowersGuide TypeCulture GuideGenus/Species/VarietyEricaIntroductionYou have questions about your Erica crop, we have answers!Information Download a printable PDF version What are key events I shouldn’t miss when growing this crop? Planting: The program is designed for planting liners in approximately Weeks 16–18. The liners should be transplanted upon receipt to eliminate the potential for deterioration Trimming: At least one trim is necessary and should be completed no later than Week 26. Preferably, get two trims in before this as this will help with pot-fill. The second trim should be minimal and be more of a clean-up trim for any branches that may have been missed the first time. Spacing: Space the plants to allow for airflow and encourage uniform growth. Plants grown too close together have a higher risk of disease occurrence. Overwintering: Erica will tolerate frost, but it may be beneficial to move plants to a protected area to prevent exposure to snowfall and desiccating winds. This is also advantageous when shipping over the winter months. What soil do I need? UUse a well-draining substrate with a pH target between 3.5 and 4.5. Consider the alkalinity of your water source; water with high alkalinity will increase substrate pH over time. Incorporating a low rate of 8–9 month controlled-release fertilizer (CRF) such as 16–8–12 is recommended. What kind of environment do I need? Transplant the liners outdoors to grow in full sun, as it maximizes airflow and exposure to sunlight. When can I expect buds or color? Flower buds typically set and develop through August and September. Depending on the species, cultivar, and fertilization strategy, color can start showing as early as December or as late as mid-January. What kind of fertilizer strategy should I have? Consider growing with a soluble, NPK-balanced fertilizer, opting for 200–250ppm N one to two times per week. This fertilizer should be primarily nitrate-N-based. We prioritize nitrate nitrogen over ammoniacal nitrogen to keep growth f irmer and less susceptible to pests. After the final trim, reduce N to 150ppm and continue until branches reach the edge of the pot. This fertilizer is ideally 2:1 nitrate-form N to ammoniacal N. Once branches reach the edge of the pot, clear watering is sufficient due to the presence of CRF in the substrate. What kind of pests should I anticipate? PythiumPestalotiaRhizoctoniaAphids (vector of disease) Yellowing foliage could be an indicator of Pestalotia. Copper/orange foliage symptoms are indicative of Pestalotia. ------------- This cultural advice is sourced from our experience in our Pacific Northwest location (British Columbia, Canada). You may experience variations based on your location, light, and temperature levels.NotesURL NameErica-Culture-Guide-for-Growers